How to Repair a Toilet

Posted by Unknown Friday 27 July 2012


The toilet is one of the most important fixtures in your home. Although toilets are sturdy and reliable components of the plumbing system, it’s a rare homeowner or apartment-dweller who never has any problems with a toilet. Clogging is perhaps the most common toilet trouble, but it is far from the only one. The tank, for example, can make all sorts of strange noises, or water can run continuously. Fortunately, most toilet troubles can be fixed by a do-it-yourself plumber.
If you're a do-it-yourself kind of person, learning some quick fixes can keep you from calling the plumber. In this article, we're going to explain various issues related to repairing toilets.
     




    Replacing a Toilet Seat

    The easiest toilet repair task is replacing the lid and seat. There are so many styles of replacement seats available that you should have no trouble finding one to match any bathroom color scheme or motif. Most modern toilets are manufactured in two standard sizes, and replacement seats are made to fit them.

    Once you have the right size seat, remove the old one. Remove the two nuts on the hinge and lift your old toilet seat up and out. A common problem is that the nuts securing the toilet seat may be rusted or corroded. The nuts on some toilet seats are recessed and practically inaccessible, making the job even more difficult.


    A new toilet seat can be installed by inserting the two bolts, slipping on the washers, and tightening the nuts. Be careful not to over-tighten the nuts or the seat might be hard to remove later.

    What’s the solution? If you can get to the fasteners relatively easily, apply some penetrating oil to help loosen them. Give the oil plenty of time to soak in. Use a wrench, or, if you can’t reach the nuts with a regular wrench, a deep socket wrench. Be sure you don’t use too much force; if the wrench slips off a stubborn nut, it could strike and crack the tank of the bowl or anything else it happens to hit.

    Sink, Tub and Drain Troubleshooting Guide
    Problem
    Possible Cause
    Solution
    Water in tank runs constantly
    		Float ball or rod is misaligned.Bend float rod carefully to move ball so it will not rub against side of tank.
    Float ball contains water.Empty or replace float ball.
    Float ball not rising high enough.Carefully bend float rod down, but only slightly.
    Tank ball not sealing properly at bottom of tank.Remove any corrosion from lip of valve seat. Replace tank ball if worn. Adjust lift wire and guide.
    Ballcock valve does not shut off water.Replace washers in ballcock assembly or, if necessary, replace entire assembly.
    Toilet does not flush or flushes inadequately
    		Drain is clogged.Remove blockage in drain.
    Not enough water in tank.Raise water in tank by bending float rod up slightly.
    Tank ball falls back before enough water leaves tank.Move guide up so tank ball can rise higher.
    Leak where tank joins toilet bowl.Tighten nuts on spud pipe; replace spud washers, if necessary.
    Ports around bowl rim clogged.Ream out residue from ports.
    Tank whines while filling
    		Ballcock valve not operating properly.Replace washers or install new ballcock assembly
    Waster supply is restricted.Check shutoff to make sure it's completely open. Check for scale or corrosion at entry into tank on valve.
    Moisture around fixture
    		Condensation.Install foam liner, tank cover, drip catcher or temperature valve.
    Leak at flange wax seal.Remove toilet and install new wax ring seal.
    Leak at bowl-tank connection.Tighten spud pipe nuts; replace worn spud washers, if necessary.
    Leak at water inlet connection.Tighten locknut and coupling nut; replace washers and gasket, if necessary.
    Crack in bowl or tank.Replace bowl, tank, or entire fixture.

     

    If all else fails, you’ll have to cut off the bolts with a hacksaw. To protect the bowl’s finish, apply tape to the bowl at the spots the hacksaw blade is likely to rub against. Then insert the blade under the hinge, and saw through the bolts. Be extremely cautious in using the saw—a careless slip with a hacksaw can crack the fixture just as easily as a blow with a wrench.

    With the nuts removed or the bolts cut, you can remove the old seat without further difficulty. Clean the area before installing the new seat. The new on can be installed by inserting the bolts and tightening the nuts. Be careful not to over-tighten the nuts, as you may want to replace this seat someday as well. If you live in a rented apartment and install a new seat that you paid for yourself, be sure to keep the old one. When you’re ready to leave, you can replace the new on with the original and take the new seat with you.

    If the toilet lid and seat are still in good condition, but the small rubber bumpers on the bottom are in bad shape, you can buy replacement bumpers at the hardware store. Some bumpers screw in; others must be nailed or glued into place. Whichever type you have, try to install the new ones in holes that are close enough to conceal the original holes.


    Clearing a Clogged Toilet

    You can generally clear a clogged toilet with a plunger, otherwise known as the plumbers’ friend. Make sure that there’s enough water in the toilet bowl to cover the rubber suction cup, then work the handle of the plunger up and down. If there isn’t enough water in the bowl, do not flush the toilet; flushing a clogged toilet will just cause the bowl to overflow. Instead, bring a pan or pot of water from another source to supply the water you need to cover the plunger cup. There are two types of plungers, and the one with a bulb-type head is especially effective for toilets. Some types have a fold-out head that’s designed for toilet use.

    Usually, whatever is blocking the toilet drain is not very far away. If the plunger’s action doesn’t dislodge the clog, you can try to hook the blockage and pull it free. A wire coat hanger can sometimes do the job, but it is really a substitute for the closet or toilet auger.


    Before using the plunger, make sure there’s enough water in the toilet bowl to cover the suction cup. Pump the plunger to dislodge the clog.

    The auger has a long sleeve or tube to guide the snake and auger hook into the trap. A crank on the end enables you to turn the hook in the drain or trap. Here’s how to use it.

    Step 1: Insert the auger into the toilet trap and turn the crank until it feels tight. This means that the snake has twisted its way to and into the blockage.

    Step 2: When you pull in the auger, you should be able to remove whatever is clogging the toilet. If you aren’t successful, try the closet auger several more times. In some cases, you may have to resort to pushing a regular plumbers’ snake through the blockage.

    Step 3: When all else fails, the toilet may have to be removed from the floor and turned upside down so you can get a blockage. This is not what anyone would call an easy job, so you should give the simpler methods as good a try as you can before you remove the toilet. But removing the toilet is not beyond the capabilities of the average do-it-yourselfer, and this procedure is explained in the forthcoming section.


    The closet auger has a long sleeve to guide the snake and auger hook into the trap. A crank enables you to turn the hook and dislodge the blockage.

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